I can only agree… beautiful bottles.
René & Vincent Dauvissat are world-famous for their coveted Les Clos and Les Preuses. But insiders know of a third prize in their portfolio: the premier cru La Forest (a.k.a. La Forêt.)
At a price that’s half the grand crus, many knowledgeable observers regard La Forest as a near-equal, regularly achieving grand cru levels of expressiveness, depth and complexity.
Dauvissat produces three other premier crus—Sechet, Vaillons and Montmains—and they are among Chablis’ best. But as fine as they are, La Forest combines a rounder, more honeyed texture with deeper aromas and flavors. This enables the wine to reach a degree of weight and complexity typically found only in the best grand crus. There is also a pronounced forest floor characteristic with an anise seed nuance that comes with age; this, too, is an expression of the great La Forest terroir.
These qualities come from a high percentage of old vines (a 40-year average); a perfect southern exposure; and a classic Kimmeridgian soil that is—like the great grand cru Les Clos—mostly clay. Such soils are cool—cooler, for example, than Forest’s rival, Montée de Tonnerre—and they retain less heat. They are most sensitive to frost in the spring, and the fruit ripens more slowly.
The bottom line is that La Forest is vulnerable to reduced yields, due to Chablis’ frequent spring frosts, and difficult ripening in cool or rainy years. But in warm, sunny years, it excels, achieving a degree of complexity and richness that is of true grand cru quality.
Text from www.rarewineco.com
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